So I know there's tons of posts on here about deleting the airbox. Mine method isn't all that much different other than I'm mounting the pod filter directly onto the throttle body. More on that and pics later when the filter shows up in the mail. But for the time being I'm removing the rest of the bits. I bought an sas blanking plate, the dongles, and a crankcase breather filter. But I'm left with the breather on top of the head. The purple arrows show the vacuum hose going from the head breather to the chamber in the frame. The yellow shows where there was a vacuum line to the now discarded airbox. Theres a second nipple below that one which had a vacuum line going to another part of the sas system that was discarded. All that being said, the obvious option in my head is to buy another breather filter similar to the crank case to fit onto the head rather than plugging the exposed points on the frame chamber. Any input on why that would or wouldn't work is appreciated.
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mayonaise_invasion
New (and possibly improved) airbox delete
So I know there's tons of posts on here about deleting the airbox. Mine method isn't all that much different other than I'm mounting the pod filter directly onto the throttle body. More on that and pics later when the filter shows up in the mail. But for the time being I'm removing the rest of the bits. I bought an sas blanking plate, the dongles, and a crankcase breather filter. But I'm left with the breather on top of the head. The purple arrows show the vacuum hose going from the head breather to the chamber in the frame. The yellow shows where there was a vacuum line to the now discarded airbox. Theres a second nipple below that one which had a vacuum line going to another part of the sas system that was discarded. All that being said, the obvious option in my head is to buy another breather filter similar to the crank case to fit onto the head rather than plugging the exposed points on the frame chamber. Any input on why that would or wouldn't work is appreciated.
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I appreciate the heads up. I chatting with a guy right now who sold his duke and is going to sell me his pcv. And like I said, I'm debating about buying the auto tune off him as well
I'll likely go the power commander route. Debating if I'll run auto tune as well
Uni breather pod is installed on the head. Part Number up-104. The head nipple is 5/8" compared to the 1/2" crankcase nipple. I typically prefer k&n products over uni but their smallest breather had a diameter of 2" whereas the uni is 1 1/2" and it's a tight spot with the fuse box. I actually had to slip the fuse box off the mounting tines to install the breather and it's a photo finish. Once I drill the temp snesor mounting holes into the intake filter, this will be a wrap. Pics to come.
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I've read several posts about keeping the stock intake boot. I'd like to see a dyno side by side. I'm not a physicist but have a decent grasp on air dynamics. I don't see how the added length would add any benefit and I also don't understand how the velocity stack or trumpet effect works within the pod. All that being said I've never seen a 701 with thr exposed pod filter look and damn it looks great đź‘Ť
Here's the crankcase breather. Its a k&n 62-1330 and it mounts directly onto the crankcase nipple. In hindsight I wish I did a bit more research becore i ordered it. The k&n 62-2480 also fits right onto the nipple but is a smaller filter. 1 1/8" tall x 1 3/8" Diameter vs 1 1/2" tall x 2" Diameter. I know thats splitting hairs and it really doesn't matter but i think the smaller one would look a bit more trick. Oh well. Breather for the head is on its way in the mail. Pics to follow
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Here's the pod filter mounted directly onto the throttle body. I love the cafe racer look with the empty subframe and visible pod filter. For anyone trying to recreate this it's a k&n ru-1770 filter. That being said, k&n has limited sizes so the ID of the flange is 62mm which is just a tad Oversized. I cranked down on the worm clamp and it seems to be solid. I'll check for vacuum leak later. I had previously tried a larger k&n filter, the rx-3800 which didnt have the clearance with the location of the fuel pump. DNA makes a filter, ro-620-150, with a 60mm ID flange. But it's basically the exact same dimensions as the rx-3800 so I'm afraid it wouldn't fit. The DNA filter has a 2.5in flange length where as the k&n that fits is 2in. If this k&n has vacuum leak, then perhaps I'll order the DNA and hope cutting a half inch of the flange makes it just barely fit but I'm afraid the larger diameter is the issue and not the flange length. Next step is drilling a few holes into the flange to mount the stock air temp sensor. Pics to follow.
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Oil spitting was going to be my follow up question. Love it! Thank you!
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