I have 08 ktm xcw no spark replaced stator still no spark have 126 volts from cdi to coil coil testing was good cap good what else needs to be checked also pulser pick up good
Here is part number 54839031700You're making progress. Tickling kill switch simulates trigger causing spark. If trigger wiring is ok you likely have defective CDI. I think your trigger is integrated into stator. You claim no spark with previous stator and coil secondary fires plug which proves ability to fire secondary. I'm fairly confident CDI is culprit. Post part number on module here on forum if possible. Will try to help
Usually you check primary coil voltage across the coil.Multi meter using ktm specs for coil primary and secondary yes i have peak power adapter im getting 130 volts from cdi to coil blu/whi wire
We have had 2 same/similar bikes all the way from 65 racing. The only testing of CDI's we have ever done is to swap the CDI for the one from the other bike. In 12 years of racing we have only had one CDI die on us.Usually you check primary coil voltage across the coil.
Cdi could fail from bad stator I do believe. Not sure if bad cdi would fail a new stator. (I suppose any severe load in an ignition system would fry other components)
If stator is starting to fail this early in the picture, there might be a problem with the flywheel.
I have no knowledge of an accurate testing procedure on a cdi without bench testing it.
I would be willing to learn if someone does have a procedure.
Im pretty sure its stator or flywheel leaning toward stator ordered a oem i tried cdi off my 200 exc still no sparkWe have had 2 same/similar bikes all the way from 65 racing. The only testing of CDI's we have ever done is to swap the CDI for the one from the other bike. In 12 years of racing we have only had one CDI die on us.
Yep, that is a good way of testing. Just fit the CDI and keep the plug out to test. (Do not try to start motor as the spark timing might be all wrong!)Im pretty sure its stator or flywheel leaning toward stator ordered a oem i tried cdi off my 200 exc still no spark
The KTM stators have always been one of their Achilles heals! We started travelling with a spare new stator as we had some bad experiences. That then lead to us having 2 bikes so I would have time to do repairs at the track if needed while my son used the 2'nd bike.Im pretty sure its stator or flywheel leaning toward stator ordered a oem i tried cdi off my 200 exc still no spark
Yea that's what i did still no spark same voltage as the other cdi was putting out also 130 volts oem stator with broken wire has 6 volts more than the new Chinese stator my new stator is oem be here Thursday hopefully that will be the problemYep, that is a good way of testing. Just fit the CDI and keep the plug out to test. (Do not try to start motor as the spark timing might be all wrong!)
Yep, same way I use to test the sems ignition systems. Just swap out with known good one.We have had 2 same/similar bikes all the way from 65 racing. The only testing of CDI's we have ever done is to swap the CDI for the one from the other bike. In 12 years of racing we have only had one CDI die on us.
Yea its hit or miss with that stuff ill let you know how i goes when stator gets hereYep, same way I use to test the sems ignition systems. Just swap out with known good one.
Lee87, good luck with new stator. Hopefully that fixes your problem.
I have never got an decent ignition components from china.
Last thing I bought off the off chance was a couple R1 voltage regs as they were $20 compared to $250 genuine. Bought 2 thinking I should surely get one good one. Both we're putting out 15.5-16v. Would've fried the new battery.
Still no spark after changing and checking every but flywheel any ideaYep, same way I use to test the sems ignition systems. Just swap out with known good one.
Lee87, good luck with new stator. Hopefully that fixes your problem.
I have never got an decent ignition components from china.
Last thing I bought off the off chance was a couple R1 voltage regs as they were $20 compared to $250 genuine. Bought 2 thinking I should surely get one good one. Both we're putting out 15.5-16v. Would've fried the new battery.
Mate, I'm only clutching at straws, rarely have I had a faulty flywheel, but it can happen. The flywheel hasn't sheared the key way has it?Still no spark after changing and checking every but flywheel any idea
I found another thing wrong with bike i put my ground lead on battery and other on engine had positive voltage got to checking around found fried voltage regulator dumpi g positive voltage to all my grounds all of the grounds were going positive when i hit start button soon as i let if off they go back to ground and i would get a spark if crank was in position at least i hope that's itMate, I'm only clutching at straws, rarely have I had a faulty flywheel, but it can happen. The flywheel hasn't sheared the key way has it?
Do you guys have people over there who bench run stuff? If I have a brain teaser, I send the whole ignition system to Steve at betta bikes over here and he bench tests it and can pin point the issue before I start throwing hundreds of dollars at sh-t. Granted it costs 100 to a $150, but can save you more than that and the headache.
The only other way I have done it is as axzon mentioned and that's swapping bits out with a known working one.