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The SAS is the true blacktop munching champion. I’m 6’ 5” 275 lbs and I have a 2022 SDR EVO. While I can still ride it for quite a while. 1 1/2 to 2 hour stints , I can ride the SAS all day just breaking for gas and grub. On the SDR EVO I need to stretch for 20 minutes before I remount.

So depends what your riding trailer to the mountains and the spin local twisties take SDR. Do back to back 300 to 400 mile traveling days take the SAS .

The 17” front and sport rubber just get you closure to sport bike performance without sacrificing ergonomics


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My custom rear wheel arrived yesterday. I got it to match the custom 17” front wheel conversion I did a few weeks ago. For the rear, I went wider (5.5 vs stock 5”) so I can comfortably fit a 190mm tire. And my measurements were correct. It fit with just enough swing arm clearance. And I didn’t even have to trim the chain guard. Initial impressions are very positive. Wider rear tire slows down what was really fast steering with the added benefit of having much greater choice of tire selection. Running Michelin Road 5 tires for now. Already a massive improvement over the Mitas rubber the bike came with (sadly).
 

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I love the 17” front which is why I have been working with Warp9 racing to make a kit for it. Hopefully soon.

I’ve thought quite a lot about doing the 5.5” rear and 190 rear. I just put a 180/55 on it and for me I like it. It turns really quick , but it is still stable. I did calculations my self and based on measurements it would just barely work. But barely working , means it works. Congratulations. I am sure the 190 will give you a little bit more of a contact patch but putting the 180 /55 has a similar effect as it tend the bow out the tire and accomplish that . Of course this is why the bike tips I’m so willingly.

I would steal think about doing it. Maybe I can squeeze a 990 SMT rear wheel in there with some modifications make it work. I just need one so I can get some measurements on it. I have an RC8R set of wheels as well with a 6” but it ends up 3/8” to wide for the swing arm.


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I love the 17” front which is why I have been working with Warp9 racing to make a kit for it. Hopefully soon.

I’ve thought quite a lot about doing the 5.5” rear and 190 rear. I just put a 180/55 on it and for me I like it. It turns really quick , but it is still stable. I did calculations my self and based on measurements it would just barely work. But barely working , means it works. Congratulations. I am sure the 190 will give you a little bit more of a contact patch but putting the 180 /55 has a similar effect as it tend the bow out the tire and accomplish that . Of course this is why the bike tips I’m so willingly.

I would steal think about doing it. Maybe I can squeeze a 990 SMT rear wheel in there with some modifications make it work. I just need one so I can get some measurements on it. I have an RC8R set of wheels as well with a 6” but it ends up 3/8” to wide for the swing arm.


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The 190 rear truly feels great. It does slow down the tip-in response slightly but only because it was so spastic before with the 17" front wheel and stock rear wheel/tire. Feels much more stable and easy to modulate lean now. It is exactly what I was looking for when I was debating between 180/190/5.5"/5.0". Rarely in my life have reality matched enthusiastic exceptions, but in this case it did :). I also think the wider tire looks the business.
 
This bike is the bomb. Pushes out 170 hp plus and probably 106 ft lbs. This is what the SMT should have been . Truthfully I do believe a 5.5” rear rim fitting a 190 on it would have been preference. But it’s matching wheels and I wanted a balanced look and cast or forged wheels .

The 180 on the rear is phenomenal, and the only way you could tell the difference between that and s 190 is if you track it. For street use and twisties this this is nuts. Chris Fillmore on this bike would spank the 890 SMT even with a 180 rear.



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Hi, to do the conversion you need, obviously, a KTM 1290 17 SD, or SD GT, front rim, SD 1290 rotors, original SAS rotors are 6 bolts rotors and rim is 5 bolts, front fender (you can use original but it's quite big for the new tyre) from a 1290 SD or KTM 990 SMT.

Once you have this parts, you need two 5mm rotor spacers, two 2 mm axe spacers and a new ABS tone ring with different number of spaces cause you can change tyre diameter in your ECU

A friend of mine is a engineer who have access to machinist so I decide to ask him to help me and we made a complete kit, if you are interested please, send me a DM View attachment 111837
I’m also interested in purchasing if you have more available.
 
So I talked to Warp9 I would have to order 100 kits . To get ABS ring and washers, Spacers, and then rotor bolts looks like $82 plus whatever shipping is what the . So basically do you all think their is enough interest in 100 kits , I would have to front it


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Hi, to do the conversion you need, obviously, a KTM 1290 17 SD, or SD GT, front rim, SD 1290 rotors, original SAS rotors are 6 bolts rotors and rim is 5 bolts, front fender (you can use original but it's quite big for the new tyre) from a 1290 SD or KTM 990 SMT.

Once you have this parts, you need two 5mm rotor spacers, two 2 mm axe spacers and a new ABS tone ring with different number of spaces cause you can change tyre diameter in your ECU

A friend of mine is a engineer who have access to machinist so I decide to ask him to help me and we made a complete kit, if you are interested please, send me a DM View attachment 111837
Helly, i m interested on this kit. I would like to know if i can buy it. I don’t know how send you a DM
 
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