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Pre-purchase KTM 530 exc advice

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10K views 14 replies 3 participants last post by  Smithers  
#1 ·
Hello all, found a classified for a 2011 530exc. Second owner, bought from his wealthy bro-in-law and rode it 250kms only.

I've been reading what I can find on these bikes and am pretty excited to buy it. Im thinking I'll take it to a local cycle shop to have it looked over by someone whose turned a wrench on a KTM before , because I have not.

I see it's got a larger aftermarket tank, it has 2,350kms, rad fan and that's all I know. I'm concerned about the header discoloring being an indication it was run lean and hot. Thoughts? Any experienced eyes see anything in these photos that I'm not noticing? Eight hour drive one way to go see it next week.

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#2 ·
Biggest issue with that gen is internal seal failure allowing oil migration between combustion and transmission side. Separating them didn't turn out to be a great idea. With the split oil system it wasn't uncommon for some heavy handed home mechanics to strip the oil screen head on the bottom of the motor, check em. Some early models had incorrect cam/decomp but no issues on 2011's. Some failures with plastic oil pump gears which is preventable by replacement as they wear. Header is fine, normal. OEM cct was pretty weak as well, aftermarket units readily available. I had an 08 530, great bike. With that mileage I'd be doing a top end, the oem rings aren't highly regarded.
 
#4 ·
Sorry, meant cct. Cam chain tensioner. Don't make the mistake I made. Installed fully extended after I did a top end. Made it 15 hours before the chain finally broke, while I was 20 miles from Coco's corner in Baja. Always collapse it when installing.
 
#8 ·
I thought that 530 was pretty nice! I would recommend the KTM considering the very low hours and accessories already taken care of. Just fyi I have 3 big bore KTM bikes in my collection. With these bikes you are looking at here the deciding factor - parts availability. Just look around for minor service parts and then do a search for major engine components like a new top end. The bikes are only as good as the parts that are still available. If you go offroad take into consideration damaging the side case cover on each bike... how much money and how long would it take you to replace the parts that were damaged? How much would a new stator AND magneto/flywheel be if it was damaged?

I see this happen all the time! I just bought a VERY nice WR450 cheap because it was dropped on the stator side and needs everything on the left of it... and that's a Yamaha. On a KTM or other euro brand the bikes would have been parted out immediately because it's not worth it to replace all those expensive parts. $$$

The Euro brands have factory defective parts more often than anything so parts being available is crucial. Careful which bike you choose! You don't want to be stuck with a bike. Just imagine how much each of those bikes will be worth in 4-5 years. :) I would stick to 2015 or newer if it were me. You didn't mention price so maybe you are finding them for under 5 grand? I wouldn't pay more than 4,500 for the cherry KTM just because of the age... but it's a great bike. I've seen one for sale with a bad crankshaft for just under $2,000... boy that was tempting! And the other model I wouldn't want. I like riding my bikes more than working on them. I'm seeing more and more bikes for sale very cheap because the owners can't get parts or the parts and labor to have them fixed is very high for these. And in general people want the newer bikes so the pre-15' bikes aren't nearly as valuable. Keep us updated !!
 
#12 · (Edited)
So I'm in a holding pattern waiting for my bank. Transfered some funds to a different account and been waiting 10+ business days. Ridiculous.

However, this one just came up. I wasn't looking at 350s much. The 501 above has had new tires and oil since new with 2100kms and 74 hours.

This one with details listed below has: 166 hours and 3500kms.

What's the better deal?

2014 FE350
E-Start only- comes with case cover that allows for optional kicker to be added. (I've never needed it)
Well maintained. Fluids changed regularly. Engine Ice in rad.
Valves checked spring 2019 and were within spec.

Includes the following parts
  • FMF Powercore 4.0 silencer
  • Upgraded front and rear suspension (0.48kg fork springs/PDS6 rear spring- for 200lb rider)
  • WPS Battery (lighter than stock)
  • Seat Concepts grip seat cover
  • 2 air filters (stock and a/m)
  • New Chain and Sprokets (13/52)- replaced spring 2019.
  • New Wheel Bearings (front/rear)- replaced spring 2019
-New SKS Fork Seals/Dust Seals- replaced spring 2019
-Rad Guards
-Skid Plate
-Rear Disc Guard
-Moose hand guards with BRP mounts and flags
-New Dunlop AT81 tires front/rear (HD tubes)- 3 rides after install (Aug 2019)
**All oem parts will be provided with bike.
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#13 ·
Oh man that 350 looks worn out : ] That dude must ride pretty hard. It's decked out with all the good stuff ready to attack the trails. But he's selling it to avoid engine rebuilding. I wouldn't touch that bike. You would be MUCH better off just buying a new one from last year that is heavily discounted. You need to be careful buying the big bore 500 vs the smaller ones. The 500 is a big engine! You just barely turn the throttle to go anywhere you want, thus, the engines last longer. If you are up in the trees you would be much better off to buy a bike with an engine smaller than 500cc. I have a 400 and I think it's the best compromise ever. But I'm sure the newer 350's are probably better than my older 400. For racing the 350 is the way to go. If going street legal or you just like to do wheelies the bigger bikes are awesome.

I wouldn't buy a smaller displacement bike from anyone that rode it a lot without a papertrail from the last engine rebuild. It's too expensive to rebuild them or risk riding one that is showing lots of hours that hasn't been redone. You can find old leftover bikes at dealerships heavily discounted. Yeah it's 3 or 4 grand more but you get a BRAND NEW bike and the engine is fresh. Imagine buying a bike for 4-5 grand only to have the engine go bad and need a $2500-3500 rebuild! Yikes... but of course if you can rebuild your own engine than it's not that big of a problem.