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Replaced the 2021 1290SDR with a 1390SDR

7.5K views 49 replies 11 participants last post by  rikkert  
#1 ·
The new 1390, alongside the old 1290. I currently own both, but am hoping the 1290 finds a happy and appreciative new home...

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The 1390 has
Power Parts Tech Pack (of course),
Power Parts front wave rotors,
Power Parts brake and clutch levers,

Still waiting on
Power Parts pillion seat cover,
SC Project SC1-R muffler (as seen on the 1290),
EvoTech radiator guard,
To complete the run-in period so that what I bought has been fully delivered!
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
By "good suspension", do you mean the non-semi-active manual version? If so, yes, I did get the non-Evo model SDR that has the manual suspension, as indicated by the red fork rings (not blue).

I've owned a Gen 2.0 and a Gen 3.0 1290SDR, and both had electronics issues (among others), so really didn't want the expensive extra complexity for things to go wrong. Also, the configuration of the 1390 is almost overwhelming as it is, without adding even more. Especially when I don't feel I'd benefit from them.

What I mean is, I don't track my bikes and don't feel a need to be constantly adjusting things when riding. I set up my suspension for my kind of riding and then mostly leave it alone. I'd rather get used to the bike and it's handling, and concentrate on enjoying the riding, not on endless tweaking options.

So far, with the update from the 1290, I haven't had a chance to really notice much difference (as it's still in the run-in period), other than the need to adjust the levers, etc. Oh, and the way it revs so high when cold starting and then slows back to warm up. Unsettling, compared to the 1290. Also that it seems to hold revs higher when pulling up, then dropping back after stopping. Like it's trying to stay ready to power away before a complete stop if lights change or something.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I've ridden the 1390 SDR about 300Kms, so far, and have one FAIRLY MAJOR concern... IT STALLS UNEXPECTANTLY when taking off after sitting at lights. It's done it FOUR times in two days. I'm positive it's not my riding, being used to the Gen 3.0 which never had the problem. Interestingly, my Gen 2.0 did have this issue. Basically, as soon as you apply ANY throttle, even before the clutch gets to the friction point, the bike stalls. If I am still holding the clutch in completely and "blip" the throttle it sometimes stalls. The other stressful part of this is that when you try to restart, there's still compression in a cylinder that prevents turnover. Usually a second attempt re-starts the bike.

This issue has made me feel quite stressed at lights now. I even started trying to keep the revs slightly higher than idle, as well as got the dealer to plug the computer into bike and check things, but it's still stalled once since.

Surely I can't be the only one who has experienced this. I mean, I have endured it, intermittently, on two of my three Super Dukes, so have plenty of experience riding these things!
 
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Discussion starter · #17 · (Edited)
But isn't that the point of the EVO suspension?

Reviewers seem to agree that the manual suspension is specifically better for track use, where you do dial it in to the specifics of the rider and track and then leave it.

For street riding, the EVO suspension in "auto" mode (or whatever it's called) is supposed to be for exactly the type of rider like you. Or so I have understood. Put it in Auto mode and just let it do it's thing. That is instead of manual suspension where you might - just as an example - want to adjust it one way for solo riding on a road trip, but a different way for just hammering the twisties, versus yet a different bunch of settings if you're just taking a passenger on the bike for a run afternoon ride.

With the EVO bike, you could/would just put it in Auto, maybe change a setting on the dash for if you're carrying a passenger or not, and then just ride. The Auto mode detects how you're riding and adjusts itself accordingly. Ride for an hour on boring straight roads and it makes itself cushy. Get off the freeway and hit the canyons for a couple of hours and the EVO suspension tightens up and works well for that. Then back on the freeway to head home and the EVO goes back to a more cushy ride automatically.

It seems pretty ideal for how you describe your riding.
Hey StuartV, all good points and valid.

Nevertheless, I like to get a "feel" for the bike, set things up for my most common riding conditions and then mostly leave it alone. I want to get used to how the bike behaves, adjust things until it is close to how I prefer, and then adapt my riding from there.

This is why I ONLY ever use the one riding mode... Performance, and alter my riding style to the conditions. Wet, dry, city, or country. I do not want, nor expect, the bike to do any compensating for me by changing how it behaves. Yes, I accept and want ABS, MTS, Quickshifter+, etc., but definitely not keen on the suspension doing different things at differenet times. And even if I did set and forget the electronic suspecnsion, why pay the extra?

I also feel that if the bike is interfering and constantly adjusting how it behaves (not just suspension), one may lose certain riding skills or become complacent.

Basically, I ride a naked for a reason... keep it WILD (which is definitely what the SDR is all about), but also stripped back and raw. No regrets getting the non-Evo.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Ouch!!!! That one kind of hurts.... Hopefully you get that straightened out quickly. I am right at 300 miles now and have had nothing but BIG *** SMILES under the helmet when riding this monster.
I would take it back to be repaired, no reason a brand new 20k bike should not run perfectly.
OK, the dealer plugged in the computer and contacted the KTM techs. Now it all kind of makes sense. As I had the Power Parts clutch and front brake levers installed for delivery, the reed switch on the clutch needed adjustment. When the dealer described the problem, the KTM tech immediately asked if it had an after-market clutch lever. Apparently, even the Power Parts lever is slightly different from the stock one. Anyway, it seems that there was a point where the bike thought the clutch was/wasn't engaged and caused some confusion for the ECU.

Oh, and I realised that my 1290 always had the throttle response set to "Sport", while the 1390 was set to "Street", therefore, maybe my muscle memory was a slight factor, as well.

Hopefully this concerning issue has been resolved as I have only ridden it home and not yet given it a good test.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Well, I'm not sure I'm going to enjoy keeping the new lens headlights clean on the 1390...

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Other than a pressure washer, not sure this can just be wiped off! Oh, and yeah, I need to get that radiator guard on soon!

Compare that to the 1290 headlight for cleaning...

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
First service out of the way... I have managed to unlock the "1000Km achievement", so can now play the game with no restrictions!
 
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Discussion starter · #25 ·
Did you take to the dealer for service or did you do it yourself ?
Yes, I took it to the dealer for the first service. They need to plug in the computer to reset things (unlock the rev limit) after the run-in period. Also, it's not just an oil/filter change. They are supposed to check over the whole bike to ensure all is as it should be. No loose nuts or bolts, etc.
Haven't had much of a chance to ride since, so can't report anything yet.
 
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Discussion starter · #26 ·
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
AFAIK, at least on US bikes, the dealer does not do anything to unlock the bike during the 1st service.

The bike "unlocks" itself after it has 1K kms/621 miles. I suspect you have to power it off after that mileage and then the next start-up it is "unlocked".

The flashing rev limit warning on the tach is locked to certain RPMs during that first 1K kms, but you can definitely go in yourself, after the break-in mileage is done, and change the RPMs at which it starts flashing and at which is goes solid red. You don't HAVE to take the bike to a dealer for anything at the break-in mileage.
Fair call, considering they charge for this first service despite the bike having restrictions on it up to this point (the rev limit). In other words, we have not yet fully taken delivery of what we purchased, so the first service should be part of completing the delivery.

The other thing is that when I got to 1000Kms, my bike came up with the annoying yellow "SERVICE" warning. I haven't researched how to get rid of such warnings without the dealer resetting them - assuming they need to do it with the KTM computer app. I am also happy enough to let the KTM techs do a full check of the bike at this point, including any computer diagnostics and updates. Sure, many of us can change oil and filters and tighten nuts, etc, but with the amount of electronics on modern bikes, I'd prefer the techs with the right gear, such as the KTM computer (unavailable to non-KTM service departments), do the job.

Finally, this is the ONLY service I ever get done that does not incldue new tire/s. My previous bike was serviced every 10,000Kms (not the prescribed 15,000) because it was convenient to do so when it needed tires.

Oh, and icing on the cake, the extended factory warranty (mentioned above) is an additional incentive for me to persist with dealer service.
 
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Discussion starter · #32 ·
Yes, you can get rid of the Service warning and change the date and mileage for the next Service alert yourself. You don't have to take it to a dealer for that, either.

I'm not saying to avoid the dealer. I'm just sharing information.
Nice. I was not aware. Is it in the manual, or is there some other source you could share?
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Manual, I believe. The info is not hard to find on the Internet.
This information is not in the manual that I can find. I am also unable to find anything on the internet about any sort of "service menu" for the 1390.

I shall see if something like the instructions Hairway_to_Steven posted are relevant for the 1390.

If someone else has any links or instructions, it would be appreciated if posted here.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
I hope the rest of you who've bought any recent 1290/1390 Super Duke R (Evo) have removed all the ugly "information" stickers?

As soon as I got the 1390 home, I used a plastic scraper to (carefully) remove the sticker from the fuel tank, the three ugly and useless QR codes from the hydraulic reservoirs, the QR code off the rear Brembo caliper, and the white dots off each rim.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
It is in the KTM Repair Manual. Section "18.30 Setting the service interval display"
Ah, the "Repair Manual". I do not have that, just the Owner's Manual. Thanks for finding and posting. Much appreciated.
 
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