on my 1290 R Gen 1 I went +1 on rear sprocket and was very happy. +2 may render 1st gear useless.
larger sprocket means longer chain is needed as well.

 

Another alternative is to just get accustomed to riding in 3rd and 4th gears. I have stock gearing, and rarely use 5th, and almost never use 6th, unless on interstate. I do not feel compelled to use 5th and 6th, but some folks do. That's why they change the gearing.

 

6th is only really useful at impound-your-bike speeds.

 

Well, I guess the true test for me will be when I actually start riding this SD religiously. It'll be a commuter bike to work, have highways along the way. I just got the bike, and for now it sits in the garage until I get it tagged in a week or so. I'll know more then, but I like the information of maybe just +1 in the back, or no change at all.

 

Plus 2 on the rear sprocket is perfect for the road, once the front sprocket wears out (20,000kms) you can refit the original rear 38 and fit a new 16 up front. Thats what ive done on 2020 1290R.

 

A smaller front sprocket puts more stress on the countershaft bearing. Best to make your final gearing changes at the rear cog. Plus 2 at the rear and minus 1 at the front is the approximate equivalent of +5 at the rear. Who needs that? Mine pulls great wheelies with stock gearing. Just have to get used to running in a lower gear, as previously suggested, and keeping the revs up rather than lugging it down below 4K rpm.

 

Hammer,
Can you explain your statement about increasing the stress on the countershaft bearing?

 

It has to do with the angular momentum. The smaller the front, the more torque is applied to the countershaft at the same rpm. The radius of the sprocket affects the angular momentum. The larger that radius, the less torque the outside diameter applies to the shaft. The longer the lever, the less torque is required to do the same work. Shortening that lever (on the countershaft) puts more strain on the shaft and it's outer bearing.

Although it takes a +3 at the rear to approximate -1 at the front, changing the rear sprocket by 3 teeth actually puts less torque on it's bearing due to longer levers that -1 at the front.

 

I ran -1/+3 for a year, wasn’t horrible and made 6th more usable but also made it more abrupt and required more precise throttle control to be smooth. Roll on passes were lots of fun on the interstate.

When I did a chain and sprocket replacement last month I went to 0/+2 that you’ve asked about and it’s by no means slow. 6th gear is as others have stated no really usable, but coincidentally my other bike is a 5spd so I’m used to it in a way.

I agree with the stock 17 being better for the chain than a 16, it’s easier on the chain; how much easier is debatable but doesn’t need to bend as much so less wear on the seals. When I took my 16 off last month the chain had chewed up the center of the sprocket pretty good.

 

Hi OP,

No need to do much to your EVO until you've put more miles on it.

Just treat it as a 5 speed gearbox until you've adapted to it.

Keep it in whatever gear maintains enough revs to keep the motor happy, not shuddering......

You can go a 16T front immediately with no effect on anything except a noticeably easier gear ratio for city work and no bad effects for touring or chain wear or gearbox shaft.

However, a 40T rear will not fit on with a 17f while the bike is new. Once you have a few 000miles onboard the bigger sprox will fit in with max forward axle adjustment. This is way easier and quicker to do than the front sprox change. A 16T front is about the same as +2.5 T on the rear......

You will likely tire of slipping the clutch in 1st gear in commuting traffic, so a gearing adjustment will be a huge benefit to you.

I tried all the combinations, 40T rear, then 16T front + 38R, and settled on 16/40 - it was perfect for both city & highway. Had zero effect on fuel range and the engine loves to rev a bit higher anyway......16/40 made all the gear ratios useable in my country where we have a 100kph speed limit (while someone is monitoring it 😈) so there is no problem with staging your gearing by going 16front, then try a 40 rear later if you feel you need it.

👍

 

I tried a 16 t and liked it but I feel I wanted lower even more, I bought a 40 t Titan tough from Sprocket Specialists and it arrived today. But I sold the bike so the 40 t black is new in opened and available.

 

My plan was to go lower by 10%, and 16/40 was 11% if I remember correctly

 

16/40 from experience is fine, especially in city commuting traffic. Keep in mind OP has a brand new Evo, so it's not going to loosen up for another 3,000 miles or so. Everything is tight and notchy, and the rider has to adjust to this 1300cc V2 which is no cruiser lugger - it's a revver with a lighter crankshaft and longer rods resulting in eye watering performance above 5k rpm 😁.

However, mine was fine in slow traffic - I kept it above 3k rpm, or pulled the clutch early, but it was less onerous with the lower gear ratios.....😉

Takes a while to teach the brain not to be tempted to use 6th gear until doing 80mph though........

😁

 

New 2022 Super Duke R Evo owner here. (previously owned 1290 Super Adventure S).
I'm understanding that the 5th and 6th gears may be a little sluggish on OEM setup? And that the new 1390 power addresses this issue? I did sort of notice on the highway ride home after buying this Evo the other day, that it was a little sluggish during acceleration in these gears.

Would changing the sprocket +2 up in the rear resolve this? Anybody doing this? Thoughts?

Speed / odometer is measured from the front wheel correct, so there would be no need for a "speedo healer" if there are sprocket changes?

Thanks

I went -1 in the front and +2 in the rear and I love it. If I was to do it over again I would go -1 and +3.

 

I had +2 on the rear sprocket, stock front. Front needed replacing so fitted a -1 up front and fitted the stock 38 rear, so still similar gearing which i like. But here's my problem, i have a mate thats obsessed with roll ons. He had an V4 Tuono 2023 model, and my 1290 would smoke him in roll ons, not even close, but now he has brought a 2023 V4 Street Fighter, a whole different kettle of fish. Im thinking i may have to refit the rear +2 with the -1 up front to keep on level terms. fingers crossed. (PS his mate on his V4SF would also smoke him on the V4 Tuono) In truth i prob need to get the 1390.

 

Took some getting used to but I just ride at higher RPM, and use 6th only 75+. Came from a cruiser that topped out at 6k so it took adjusting. I also have a Rotty stage5 intake, so I can ride as low as 3k RPM, but I usually keep it around 4.

 

I don't get it, the whole changing the sprocket thing.
I enjoy lower revs on a trip in 6th, knowing I'm increasing fuel range and decreasing engine wear. If I need more gitty-up I just tap the shifter down a notch or three, clutchless, ezpz. That's what wide ratio multi-speed transmissions are for. The RC8 is very hp dense and torque rich, I don't see the need to gear down, it's instinctual to down shift as needed for me.

 

Depends on how you ride and where you ride doesn't it. I turn out my gate and I'm in the twisties in minutes, -1+3 suits that. On my race SDR it's -1+4. Longer chains, +20 ride height on the road and +30 on the track. For me, fuel range is irrelavant but I do get that for the long distance guys that's important. But, I have spoken to other SDR trackday riders and they are oblivious to changing sprockets, ride height, trail etc etc. They just enjoy the ride the way it is. For me, the only way to eek all I can out of that engine (and all my race bikes) is to change sprocket gearing. Coming out of a race track turn in 2nd on my SDR with the throttle hard open on the stop and banging through the gears to 6th ... what a buzz !!!

 

I am at -1 +7 for track only. I can still reach 155mph in 6th with Pirelli slick. Pretty much use 3rd through 6th. Never use 1st