Ok, which Specific led turn signals are used with the install of the akra exhaust
With map, to “fool” the Ecu, need a link
Thx
With map, to “fool” the Ecu, need a link
Thx
Led turn signals??
1 reading
drnick
21 - 40 of 64 Posts
Speaking for myself (I installed LEDperf indicators, which also came with those bullet connectors), I spliced the new LED wires into the connectors cut from the factory indicators and installed. You can get adapters, as I recall, but it wasn’t worth it for me.
So you're running the stock OEM LED Euro signals and they work with the akra map?
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Rizoma makes "no-cut" adapters for this situation. They specify this one for the latest Gen 3 Wiring kit for front and rear Rizoma turn signals but I think if you are trying to achieve the "Akra map" fix, you may want to use the ones for the Gen 2
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I just stripped the wires
Good catch! It looks like this would be the one to get. And they say it's compatible with a Gen3:
Home - Rizoma
www.rizoma.com
Of course, in true Italian fashion, the connector measurements don't quite match. (The resistor one is first):
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did you get an answer to this question?
Yep, but that wasn’t my question. Didn’t know if i misinterpreted his post or if he somehow found a way to get the euro Leds to work. Prefer the “stock” lights so went with @kmanou magic box
*btw, here’s the thread you mentioned Full exhaust system for 2020 SDR
*btw, here’s the thread you mentioned Full exhaust system for 2020 SDR
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If I wasn't doing a Akro map can I just due a full led conversion and have the dealer switch to led mode like my 890r with no issue on a 23 SDR?
on a 21 no adjustment is required. You install LEDs, no resistors, and it works.
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203 Posts
I've been a bit curious about the whys of what does and does not work and exactly how KTM is sensing a blinker bulb out (and, of course, the SDR Akro Map not starting when it does not sense all bulbs out). Here is what I found.
You can take a set of LED blinkers and, if they draw 20-30 miliamps, the SDR will not "see" them and will start with the Akro Map installed. I accomplished this by buying
removing the in line current limiting device (actually, it had reverse polarity and some sort of switcher LED current driver on a small printed circuit board in line with the wires) and replacing it with a 300 ohm (2W because that is what I had from the 890R work below) series resistor in the plus side. Beware that the blinkers have built in reverse voltage protection that allows the wires to be hooked up either way. The KTM compatible connector had the Red wire on the ground side and the black wire on the plus side of the bike connector. If you use the above blinkers, make sure the blinker is using the bike's Brown wire for ground/return.
For the nerds-
the voltage drop across the blinker itself was about 6.5V at 25 milliamp meaning they are likely using three LEDs in series. I just sized the in line resistor to give me about 20-25 milliamps when the bike wants to switch them on.
The above worked just fine. The SDR does not "see" them connected during the power on self test but drives them just fine when you go to use them.
I suspect any cheap LED blinker will work as long as the internal current limit resistor has it drawing about 20-30 milliamps.
On a related note, someone made a pigs ear of the tidy tail installation on my 890R which has one of those all included LED light assemblies (Bright Red and left and right Yellows). I ended up having to rewire it. I learned that the 890R "sees" a 30 ohm 2 watt resistor as being a valid blinker. It does not see a 40 ohm load resistor (that is, a resistor from blinker to ground pretending to be a bulb). I put a 30 ohm resistor as a load on both the right and left rear blinker lines which kept the bike happy (stock map so it is looking for blinkers to be installed and working). I diode ored the brake light and running light into the single tidy tail Red LED Array. The brake light was not current limited but I did put a 470 ohm (2W because that is what I had - you could use a lesser rated part) in series with the running light to dim that down. I now have a nice dim red running light whenever the key is on and it goes max bright when either brake is activated.
Hope this helps. I have a schematic of the 890R installation including OE wire colors if anyone needs it in the future.
You can take a set of LED blinkers and, if they draw 20-30 miliamps, the SDR will not "see" them and will start with the Akro Map installed. I accomplished this by buying
removing the in line current limiting device (actually, it had reverse polarity and some sort of switcher LED current driver on a small printed circuit board in line with the wires) and replacing it with a 300 ohm (2W because that is what I had from the 890R work below) series resistor in the plus side. Beware that the blinkers have built in reverse voltage protection that allows the wires to be hooked up either way. The KTM compatible connector had the Red wire on the ground side and the black wire on the plus side of the bike connector. If you use the above blinkers, make sure the blinker is using the bike's Brown wire for ground/return.
For the nerds-
the voltage drop across the blinker itself was about 6.5V at 25 milliamp meaning they are likely using three LEDs in series. I just sized the in line resistor to give me about 20-25 milliamps when the bike wants to switch them on.
The above worked just fine. The SDR does not "see" them connected during the power on self test but drives them just fine when you go to use them.
I suspect any cheap LED blinker will work as long as the internal current limit resistor has it drawing about 20-30 milliamps.
On a related note, someone made a pigs ear of the tidy tail installation on my 890R which has one of those all included LED light assemblies (Bright Red and left and right Yellows). I ended up having to rewire it. I learned that the 890R "sees" a 30 ohm 2 watt resistor as being a valid blinker. It does not see a 40 ohm load resistor (that is, a resistor from blinker to ground pretending to be a bulb). I put a 30 ohm resistor as a load on both the right and left rear blinker lines which kept the bike happy (stock map so it is looking for blinkers to be installed and working). I diode ored the brake light and running light into the single tidy tail Red LED Array. The brake light was not current limited but I did put a 470 ohm (2W because that is what I had - you could use a lesser rated part) in series with the running light to dim that down. I now have a nice dim red running light whenever the key is on and it goes max bright when either brake is activated.
Hope this helps. I have a schematic of the 890R installation including OE wire colors if anyone needs it in the future.
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I already had Rizoma Corsa's from my 890R installed up front (no resistors) and Motogadget m-blaze pins in the rear (no resistors) on my 23SD. Everything works fine now. Will be getting my full system installed and Akra map flashed soon. Fingers crossed it works out with no need for the magic box.
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203 Posts
The key is how much current whatever it is draws (be it resistor, lamp or LED). LEDs do not need a lot of current so resistors are used in parallel with the LED turn signal to make the bike think there is a bulb out there.
I will post some pics of current consumption for the ebay ones I listed along with the KTM LED full bike swap kit I purchased. Both these solutions use a printed circuit board in line with the wires between the plug and the actual turn signal to, in part, use enough power to make the bike think there is a bulb out there.
I tried some cheap sequential LEDs but power had to be applied too long to complete the sequence so they simply would not come on when the bike was cycling power (as in blinking). Looks like CNC Racing has that sorted.
I will post some pics of current consumption for the ebay ones I listed along with the KTM LED full bike swap kit I purchased. Both these solutions use a printed circuit board in line with the wires between the plug and the actual turn signal to, in part, use enough power to make the bike think there is a bulb out there.
I tried some cheap sequential LEDs but power had to be applied too long to complete the sequence so they simply would not come on when the bike was cycling power (as in blinking). Looks like CNC Racing has that sorted.
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203 Posts
Nerd alert..... Lots of in the weeds info
The Ebay and KTM LED blinkers are similar. Both use a printed circuit board in line between the connector and the actual blinker to control current to the LEDs in the blinker body.
![Image]()
this is the PCB in the EBay blinker power cord
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
This is the PCB in the KTM supplied blinker kit
![Image]()
Both draw about 170 to 180 milliamps on the power supply.... I did not check it with a more accurate current meter. Both blinkers appear to a SDR as a bulb in place. For a stock mapped bike, they do not cause an error. For an Akro mapped bike, they will prevent it from starting.
![Image]()
the KTM blinker reaches max brightness and max current at 10v input. Upping the voltage does not increase current or brightness.
The Ebay and KTM LED blinkers are similar. Both use a printed circuit board in line between the connector and the actual blinker to control current to the LEDs in the blinker body.
this is the PCB in the EBay blinker power cord
This is the PCB in the KTM supplied blinker kit
Both draw about 170 to 180 milliamps on the power supply.... I did not check it with a more accurate current meter. Both blinkers appear to a SDR as a bulb in place. For a stock mapped bike, they do not cause an error. For an Akro mapped bike, they will prevent it from starting.
the KTM blinker reaches max brightness and max current at 10v input. Upping the voltage does not increase current or brightness.
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203 Posts
If you want to use either the KTM or EBay LED blinkers on a bike with an Akro map installed, you will need to reduce the current draw below the threshold needed for the bike to "see" a bulb installed in the blinker.
If you want, you can accomplish this by removing the in line PCB from either the KTM or EBay LED blinker (or any other with an inline PCB) and place a 300 OHM resistor in series with the plus wire (or negative, it really does not matter).
![Image]()
The EBay blinker is installed on the bike and I am holding the KTM blinker under it for comparison.
![Image]()
On threshold
![Image]()
Min true on threshold
![Image]()
current draw and brightness with a 300 ohm resistor in place of the PCB
If you want, you can accomplish this by removing the in line PCB from either the KTM or EBay LED blinker (or any other with an inline PCB) and place a 300 OHM resistor in series with the plus wire (or negative, it really does not matter).
The EBay blinker is installed on the bike and I am holding the KTM blinker under it for comparison.
On threshold
Min true on threshold
current draw and brightness with a 300 ohm resistor in place of the PCB
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